Our first trip to the Bahamas. Not just that but our first
big trip ever. Sure we had done over
nighters, even gone a couple of nights out.
Never though a long journey. And not
just that, but ocean sailing, Navigating, weather watching, coral dodging…….
There were going to be a lot of firsts.
We were nervous to say the least.
I planned and planned as much as one can. Read all I could, but my ocean sailing was
very limited and we had never pushed our boat to any limits. I felt as prepared as I could be and Ashley
had full faith in me, so off we went.
I had done lots of reading about sailing offshore, watching
weather and what to expect for the Gulf Stream.
I decided that for our first leg from Canaveral to Ft. Pierce, we were
heading offshore. Well…… that didn’t go
as planned. The seas ended up being more
out of the South than expected and over the day, the wind and seas built. The first hour or so offshore things were a
bit rough. I told Ashley that we could turn around and head for the ICW, but it
would mean a day delay due to the closing of the Lock in Canaveral. She said No and that she would be fine so we
pressed on. That day ended up being a
hellish day. We sailed as much as we could but we were not making the speed we
wanted and we needed to get into port before nightfall. We motored most of the way and the bow
slammed the seas the whole way. Ashley
stayed tough and kept an eye on the pets and we pressed on hard. Come evening, we warily approached the
entrance to Ft. Pierce Channel. Tired
from the trip, we were excited to get into safe harbor. I had called ahead to Ft. Pierce Municipal
marina and reserved a slip. They said to
call upon approach and we would be directed.
We tried their phone, their working channel, everything, no answer. Being
so tired, we just went straight in and picked a slip. Well much to our surprise, the current in
that marina is 3+ knots. Something I did not discover until we were making a
slip and found ourselves being quickly pushed into a million dollar yacht. We
both pushed with all of our might to keep from hitting this boat and almost
comically, as I’m about to sacrifice a leg as a fender, a woman steps out from
a door up above my head and calmly states “ Oh goodness, do you need some help?”
With that, she and three other people rushed to the dock to help grab
lines. We got the bow over but the stern
was a struggle. I pulled and pulled and pulled and then POW!!! I was down. Pain
washed over me like a wave. I took a few
short breaths. Somehow we got the boat alongside. Not sure how, but we couldn’t
have done it without the kind help from those on the big Yacht. We thanked them profusely, and we truly meant
it. Come to find out there is
exactly a 30 minute period when there is nobody
on shift at the marina. GREAT!! And that Pop, well that was a rib separating from
my sternum. It was a hellish ending to a
hellish day, but in the end, we had a safe dock, cold drinks and we laughed it
off before a good night’s sleep. It was
about that time It dawned on me, why didn’t I use the Jib sheet winch to bring
the stern over?? Next time.
The next morning after being well rested, we decided it best
to go find an anchorage and fix all the things that went wrong while
offshore. We quickly ran into town to a
hardware store and headed south to find an anchorage. With a 6 foot keel, finding a safe place to
anchor outside the channel can be quite a challenge. After running aground trying to head up the
St. Lucie river, we turned around and anchored just North of the inlet outside
the channel. We ran the dinghy around
and found a nice island for the dog to frolic. Back on the boat, we checked the
weather and saw that we most likely would not be heading anywhere for quite a
while. It was anchored here, in the alternating current of an inlet along with
the High gusting winds of passing storms that I learned just how poorly a CQR
anchor will rest itself. We spent two sleepless nights there waiting on weather
and constantly resetting our anchor. A 45# CQR with 100 feet of chain just wasn’t
cutting it. I put new anchor at the top of my list.
The rest of the Journey South down the ICW was mostly
uneventful. It was a beautiful and scenic trip. I highly don’t recommend going
through Jupiter on a Saturday. I find it hard to believe there aren’t daily
boating deaths in that crazy area. We finally made it down to Palm Beach and
anchored up in the Northern most end. We
spent two days there shopping final groceries and waiting on weather. We met an
extremely nice Preacher and his wife who live aboard their Trimaran while
there. We were struggling with our Honda 2000 and he came over and helped me
repair it. They were a truly interesting
couple and it was nice to find such friendly help along the way.
On the day prior to our departure, we shifted down and anchored
in the busy area South of the entrance channel.
I took the dinghy over to a few other boats and spoke with fellow
sailors about the crossing. They all saw what I saw and all agreed that an
early morning start was the best time to leave. I felt good knowing that
seasoned sailors saw what I saw with the Weather. The problem with this anchorage is there is no
easy place to take a dog ashore. The best bet is peanut island which is almost
a one mile dingy ride. We planned to
leave at 2am but we couldn’t store the dingy or outboard on deck until we took
the dog ashore one last time. This made
for quite an early morning. We were a
bit nervous leaving a busy anchorage at night. On top of it all, they were
dredging the harbor and there was dredge pipeline all around. It all went well
and before we knew it, we were out to sea again watching a beautiful sunrise and bound for the Bahamas.
The crossing was smooth. The wind did not favor us and we found
ourselves motoring once again. It took a
bit longer than we anticipated so therefore we arrived just after High Tide to
Grand Bahama Island. I had made a
reservation at Sunrise Marina and I had carefully checked all charts and
watched the tide tables. I called when we were outside the channel and the lady
said we should wait for the next tide. Well it was late, the dog needed to go
ashore and I naively felt confident that there was enough water given the tide
height and the charts. Ashley was on the
bow and we slowly made our approach in the channel. It was apparent there was
some shoaling, but we took it slow and felt our way along. Inside the jettys we bumped the bottom. We
backed up some and went to Stbd to go around the shoaling. Again we
bumped. At this point I decided the charts were wrong and we would go back out
and wait on the tide. So we were backing
and all was going fine. I had to go back
about 20 more feet and we would be clear to swing the bow around and head out.
I gave the engine one more thrust astern to give plenty of room and that’s when
it happened…. Well actually no, that’s when nothing happened. I tried forward, nothing, I tried astern,
nothing…….. Shit. Panic started to set it. There was a 2 foot following sea pushing on
us and we were not yet in the clear. I yelled something incohearant to Ashley
and ran down below. My first thought was
the shifting cable had come off the
transmission. I ripped the stairs off and flung myself over the hot engine. To
my dismay, the cable was still connected.
So I manually shifted the transmission…. The shaft spun but nothing…
Shit shit shit. Where is my
propeller???? How can this be?? It was all BRAND New!! New Shaft, new coupling,
New everything! I ran up to a panicked
scene. The Rock jetty was coming up fast
and we had no way to stop it. What do
you do? We had no propulsion! I yelled for Ashley to put the pets in life
jackets and I ran up to the Bow. I grabbed our 45# anchor, but it was Jammed!!
The seas had jammed it in place. I then grabbed our 35# day anchor and threw it
as far as I could. I made the line fast
and hoped for the best. I ran back to the cock pit and Ashley asked if she
should call Mayday? YES!!! Great idea!!!
She called for Mayday and I grabbed the airhorn. There were fishing
boats just a couple hundred yards off. I Blew and blew that horn. Ashley got an answer on the radio, somebody
was coming! But they were 5-10 minutes out! The anchor had slowed the bow from
drifting but now our stern was on the rocks. With every passing wave we slammed
higher and harder on the rocks. We were panicked.
Our house was on the rocks! I told Ashley we had to cut the dinghy loose. We
keep emergency diving knives by the hatch for that exact reason She cut it
loose while I pulled out anchor rode.
(Might I note here that later I learned Ashley thought we were
abandoning ship which caused her more panic. In reality, I was going to go grab
our anchor and row it out further in hopes of using the winch to pull us off
the rocks) Just as we were about to shove our dingy overboard a 50 ft fishing
boat pulled up. More like a fishing
yacht. The only problem was we were so
far into the rocks they couldn’t get very close without them hitting
rocks. They had to come back around for
a better angle. I knew we only had one
chance at this. I grabbed two 40 ft lines and tied them together. Here my professional life paid off. I know
and have practiced the perfect way to throw a line and to throw it
accurately. I took my time in spite of
the events around me and coiled the most perfect two coils. I had to throw the line about 50ft to the
guy on the bow. When I threw that line,
it was all in slow motion. The first
coil in my right hand paid out then the second coil in my left hand. The line
flew and landed directly in the hands of the man on the bow!!! He made the line
fast and so did I. That boat pulled us to safety and off the rocks. Then we met Gary, the local salvage man. He
took our lines and towed us to safe harbor in Lucuaya. Shaken, scared, and confused we tied up to
the dock and finally sat down to take it all in. The boat was a disaster, we were a disaster.
What just happened? I checked the bilges and we were not taking on water. The steering cable was broke, but we were
safe. Finally, 19 hours after leaving FL, our dog got to Pee.
The next morning we assessed the situation. Much to my surprise, the propeller was still
there, but apparently not spinning. I fixed the Steering cable and we put the
boat back together as much as possible. We explored the area, paid customs and
tried to figure out what the hell was next.
The marina said we had to leave since we couldn’t pay their going rate.
They gave us a friendly rate for two nights since we were towed in, but we had
to go. Ashley, somehow found us a Marina just around the way. I called and they
said they had a slip available and we could come over any time. Gary showed up
and towed us over to Flamingo Bay. He
promised to return and help us with the boat.
This place turned out to be amazing. It was part of Taino Resort and by
staying at the marina, we had full access to the resort! It was fantastic! Upon
Further discovery, we learned that the Prop shop had used a Nylon Bore Reducer
so that the new shaft would work with our old propeller. The nylon bore reducer had compressed which
caused the propeller to hammer on the prop key. Finally The prop key sheared
and it all came disconnected. Apparently that one last thrust astern to get
away from the jetty was the final straw. What great timing, what luck. Geeeesh.
And even more maddening, they do sell
brass bore reducers. As to why the prop shop didn’t use one I don’t know, but I
now will never use the prop shop in Canaveral again. We ordered a new reducer and had it shipped overnight to my parents in SC. My father
then fedexed it to us. We did not know you are supposed to attach your cruising
permit to your package. So one Customs broker and two and a half weeks later,
we finally got our parts in the Bahamas.
During those two and half weeks though we were stranded at a
Resort on Grand Bahama Island and we had enough beer, gin and food to last us through!!
It was a grand time. We spent our days at the beach and the pool. We explored
the island. Went snorkeling and met lots of great people. It started out poorly but our time there was
amazing. We planned for our wedding and learned the place we were going to have
it was a waste and ended up doing it all at Taino. We would never have found it
if we hadn’t got shipwrecked. With the help of Gary we repaired the boat. Some people told us of an anchorage on the
West End we could use and soon we were on our way. The trip home was nice and uneventful. We caught the stream up to Ft Pierce and once
again stayed at the Marina, only this time we planned for a slack water
arrival!
We were glad to be home and glad that things worked
out. It was a scary start and truly a
very trying first big trip. A seasoned
sailor told me later that I am lucky to have gotten that out of the way so
early in my cruising story. He said it
happens to us all, and now that we had gone through it, we should be safe. I
sure hope he is right. I don’t need that in my life again for sure and I know
Ashley doesn’t either. We learned a lot
along the way and it made us better sailors. It hasn’t deterred us but it has
made me a bit more nervous for some things.
Our next trip was much better but not without its own issues, but that’s
for another time.
Sunrise on our crossing to the Bahamas |
Ashley enjoying a drink by the Beach |
Well Deserved drinks |